Friday,
July 5

Throughout history, the gods have been mostly silent. Sure, there have been divine revelations via prophets, holy books, and even messiahs. But when people pray to their gods, both past and present, the expected response is a nonverbal one. It’s been this way for so long, it’s difficult to imagine another option.

Incredibly, the ancient Greeks could talk directly with the gods. They asked questions, resulting in spoken answers, heard by everyone. They were called Oracles, and they were scattered throughout the Mediterranean. The most powerful one was located in a mountainous region called Delphi. Pilgrims would make an arduous journey to speak with the almighty Apollo. 

Rich and poor alike would radically alter their lives based on the counsel they received. For example, Greek colonies were founded only with the Oracle's approval. If there was no blessing, there was no city.  

But...as often dealing with the divine, there was a catch. The Oracle's messages were rarely straightforward. Imagine traveling hundreds of miles to be told: "The dragon, earthborn, in craftiness is coming behind thee." Ahh...thanks!? What would you do if you were told that? It was a warning about soldier striking from the rear who had a snake painted on his shield. Not super clear.

Correct interpretations of the elusive responses were vital. In another incident, a powerful king consulted the oracle and asked if he should battle a foreign enemy. He was told: "If you make war, you will destroy a great empire." Emboldened with the good news, he attacked. However, he was swiftly defeated. The "great empire" was his own. 

You're probably wondering how this worked, and how you, too, can talk directly to your god.

According to legend, a goat fell into a small crevice on the side of the mountain. A herder freed the goat but noticed that it was acting erratically. He entered the chasm and experienced an overwhelming mystical presence. Soon after, a shrine was built, and a young woman was selected, called the Pythia. She sat on a tripod directly over the crevice and became the voice of the god.

There was another famous incident when the Persians were preparing to attack Athens. A contingent traveled to Delphi for advice. They were told: "Far-seeing Zeus gives you a wall of wood. Only this will stand intact and help you and your children." With the enemy at the door, the Athenians had to figure out what the Oracle meant. Should they strengthen the stockade around the city? How about making wooden spears for the army? Wooden catapults? Popsicle sticks? Finally, one politician had a compelling interpretation. Perhaps a "wooden wall" was a line of warships side-by-side. The city reinforced the navy resulting in their victory at sea.

The successes of the Oracle spread throughout the Mediterranean. Individuals and states alike would bring offerings, hoping for good news. The gifts were collected at Delphi, along the sacred walkway. Most were stored in purpose-built treasury buildings like the one below. 

The ability to speak directly to Apollo thrived for hundreds of years until the late 300s CE. Her last statement correctly predicted her own demise: "...the well-made hall has fallen to the ground; No longer has Apollo his shelter, nor his prophetic laurel, nor the chattering spring; and even the babbling water has ceased." The Christian emperors silenced the Pythia and destroyed the temple in an effort to eradicate paganism.

So, where exactly did the action take place? It was at the temple below. Imagine a long line of people yearning to speak with the god about their worries, their ambitions...their lives. For those who believe such places are only relics of the past, consider Mecca or the Western Wall.   

What does archaeology say about the Oracle at Delphi? In the 1990s, an interdisciplinary team including a geologist, a chemist, a toxicologist, and an archaeologist showed that the temple sits atop a fault line. It emits hydrocarbons along with ethylene. The gases rise to the surface which can cause hallucinogenic episodes. In other words, the Pythia may have been high. 

Intoxicated or not, the Oracle at Delphi's importance can't be understated. Empires rose and fell because of her counsel. This is a magical place that truly changed the world. 

Perhaps we of the present should take heed from the past. Every pilgrim saw an inscription boldly carved upon the temple wall. The Delphic maxim proclaimed no mystery, no divine decree. It simply stated a real-world answer that many sought, even today: Γνῶθι σαυτόν.

I will share one more story that closely relates to my situation. In 132 BCE, A Roman general was returning home from battles abroad. Something had been concerning him, so he visited the Oracle. He waited his turn, descended into the dark subterranean chamber, and whispered his question among the flickering torch flames.

"Great Oracle, should I bring a gift home with me?" 

In a departure from the norm, the Pythia’s eyes opened suddenly and she responded plainly, without riddle. The Latin phrase she spoke was some of the best advice the world has ever known: “felix uxor, beatam vitam.”

Here are two more photos from my walk back to the hotel.

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