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I hopped on a tour in order to get from place to place. The one I selected had a strong focus on ancient history. However, I couldn’t pick every stop, so today I got to delve into modern times. For me, that means anything after 476 CE. Why that date? It’s the traditional year that scholars define as the fall of the Western Empire. Rome was plundered by Vandals a few years before, and the last emperor was deposed.
If you recall from the introduction, there were two sides to this coin. Rome in the west and Constantinople in the east. When the west side fell, the east kept truckin’ along for another thousand years. This was called the Byzantine Empire.
Today, I visited Meteora. It’s known for unique rock formations created millions of years ago. My view from lunch can offer an example.
During the early Byzantine period, people migrated to this region to flee the uncertainty of the times. This was especially true of Christian hermits. They climbed the steep walls and selected natural caves to concentrate on God.
Others heard about their reflective lives, which resulted in more coming. The small caves slowly transformed into full monasteries. They moved upward, to the tops of the rocks to maintain their solitude.
There were many monasteries in the region, but now only six remain. Monks still live inside and they allow visitors during specific hours. Don't worry, we didn't have to ascend the old way, via a rope and basket. They now have modern stairs (150 of them).
Here's what it looks like at the top.
If the monks need to contemplate the heavens, they have amazing views to do so.
When the Roman capital moved to Constantinople, it was adorned with traditional Greek sculpture. It didn’t take long for the region to develop its own style due three influences: classical, near-eastern, and Christian. It became known as Byzantine art.
For those of us raised in the Western tradition, one of the best examples, both inside and out, is St. Mark's Basilica in Venice.
Even though the Byzantine Empire fell in 1453, the art is still popular today. It can be seen in Christian churches of all denominations because of its long history. A few modern Greek artists continue to create paintings using the traditional methods. I was able to meet one such family today.
Father Pefkis was trained at Mount Athos, the largest monastic community in Greece. He, in turn, trained his family who all contribute to the business.
We were first brought into the shop where the frames are created. They select the wood depending on the need: cedar, walnut, linden, maple, and olive. Each one is individually carved, then covered with a cotton fabric to act as the canvas.
We were able to see one of the family members at work. She carefully balanced her forearm on a rod topped by a velvet ball, which rested on the easel. This prevents her hand from moving and allows precision. They use handmade colors mixed with egg yolk, just like in the past. This ensures the art will last for hundreds of years.
Their work garnered the attention of the Catholic Church. In 2001, Pope John Paul met with Archbishop Christodoulos at the foot of the Areopagus (the rock where St. Paul spoke). The Orthodox Church presented a painting by Father Pefkis. It now hangs at the Holy See.
In fact, the Vatican is one of their most important customers. They create many paintings that sell in Rome, including their best known ones of the Virgin Mary and the infant Jesus.
Even though Byzantine art is over a thousand years old, it's still alive and well in Greece.
As we decended, the Monastery of the Holy Trinity was the final farewell.
If you're seeking peace and quiet, Meteora is a good place to begin.
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