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When I first visit a city, I like to get the overall perspective. The purpose is to calibrate directions in my brain. There are many ways to accomplish this, but I've learned the best method is on a bicycle. It has two advantages. It covers more ground than walking and I have to pay special attention to get around. Today, most touring bikes come equipped with an electric motor. They don't petal for you, but they do provide extra oomph needed to eliminate the misery of hills. So, Athens by Bike, here I come!
The keen observer will notice that each bike had a name, based on Greek history. There were four men in the group. The first gentleman received Atlas, a muscular titan who held up the heavens for eternity. The second got Ares, the powerful god of war. The third mounted Zeus, almighty king of Olympus. When my turn came, I secretly hoped I would be handed a classical hero like Achilles. Instead, I spent the next two hours being referred to as Persephone, queen of the underworld.
Our first stop was the National Observatory of Athens. It's on a hill with an impressive view of the Acropolis. You can see the crowds when you visit at peak times (pun intended). Add a few togas and this is what it would have looked like in ancient times during the Panathenaea.
Next, we stopped at the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens. The Sunday service just ended, allowing me to step inside.
Almost everyone here practices Eastern (Greek) Orthodox Christianity. For years after Jesus' death, there were arguments about his divinity (god? god and man? only man?). It took the Council of Nicaea in 325 CE to agree on standard doctrine. This worked reasonably well for about seven hundred years. Then, more arguments surfaced, causing the Great Schism. You can read about the differences, but basically it involved leadership. The Greeks were uncomfortable with the Pope's claim of universal jurisdiction. So, just like we talked about in the introduction, there was a split between west and east. West remained Catholic, while the East developed their own ways. Then in 1517, arguments broke out yet again.
The photo below is the ancient hill used for government gatherings. The Greek Orthodox priests are in good company. This is the same place that St. Paul delivered his well-known Areopagus sermon (Acts 17:16–34).
It would take many paragraphs to describe all of the places we visited. Our focus is ancient history, so I will limit myself to that. For other spots, I've added photos and a link for more information.
Plaka neighborhood
Presidential Mansion
Panathenaic Stadium
Zappeion
Arch of Hadrian
After the bicycle tour, I took advice from the locals, both modern and ancient. I went back to the hotel for a rest and to avoid the hottest portion of the day.
The late afternoon brought me to the Acropolis Museum. The building preserves the story of ancient Athens, including many sculptures from the Parthenon. Today's weather, tourism, and pollution all combine to make it impossible to keep the artifacts outside. The new structure better protects the cultural heritage and makes the artwork more accessible. That's the official purpose of the museum. But, there's another underlying reason: an ongoing dispute for 200+ years.
Many of the Parthenon sculptures are not in Greece. They were removed by a British aristocrat in the early 1800s and eventually sold to the British Museum, where they remain today.
Greece has continually asked for their return almost since they were taken. One British argument stated that their museum could better protect the artifacts. They had a point. Greece has endured a lot of turmoil with wars, political instability, and dilapidated museums. However, a unified effort began in the 2000s to construct this state-of-the-art facility capable of housing the marbles. It opened in 2009. Again, Greece asked for their return, proudly showing where their placement would be. Both Italy and the Vatican stepped up and offered to repatriate pieces from their collections. However, the British Museum still refuses. They hold fast to the slippery slope argument. "If we return the marbles, other countries will ask for their stuff back too. The result will be that we'll have nothing to display." As you can see, the issue is much larger than one set of artifacts. It brings up uncomfortable issues about past colonialism and the future role of museums.
Below is a portion of the frieze that once surrounded the building. The real one is left and it is located in the British Museum. A plaster cast is right and it is located in the Acropolis Museum.
For now, Greece patiently waits for its artwork to return home.
Yesterday, I was able to satiate some of my desire to see Greek drama, even if it was only in excerpts. However, it was tinged with a bit of melancholy. I knew my experience was limited. Ancient theater wasn't only about performance, it was also about place. The Theatre of Dionysus we talked about yesterday was once such place. Imagine seeing a play by Sophocles here! Sadly, events aren't permitted in an effort to protect the archaeological site.
The problem required me to extend my search from 2500 years ago to only 2000 years ago. The Odeon of Herodes Atticus was built by the Romans to accommodate singing, music, and poetry for larger audiences. It's nestled on south side of the Acropolis, right below the Parthenon.
It's truly amazing that the Odeon of Herodes Atticus still open! It has hosted artists like Sinatra, Pavarotti, and Elton John. "Wouldn't it be great," I thought, "if I could experience a show in the company of the ancients?" By the grace of the gods, I was awarded the perfect center seat.
The show was the Chamber Orchestra of Europe with soprano Magdalena Kožená. It was part of a much larger event. The Athens Epidaurus Festival happens each year across multiple venues and cities. The best part is that they proudly perform classical Greek dramas in addition to modern acts. This year, it includes Iphigenia in Aulis by Euripides and Oresteia by Aeschylus at the Theatre of Epidaurus.
I made the nightime journey back to the hotel with Schubert’s symphony still echoing in my head.
Goodnight Athens!
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