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Monday, June 2
In prehistoric times, thousands of people occupied the British Isles. There is plenty of archaeological evidence that still dots the landscape. But, when visiting the southeast portion of the island, we must start with Rome.
During the Roman Republic, generals increased their power by conquering foreign lands. One such general was Julius Caesar. He led his army into Gaul (modern-day France) and then arrived at the coast with England in sight. In 55 BCE, he launched several expeditionary raids, but encountered fierce resistance by the native Britons. He withdrew to Gaul and eventually made his way back to Rome.
The Emperor Claudius followed about 100 years later. This time, he brought the support he needed: four legions and thousands of auxiliaries. The natives fought back but eventually succumbed due to the greater numbers. The Roman province of Britannia was won.
Why all the background? It’s because the place we're exploring today is not London. It's the precursor: Londinium. The Romans selected the ideal location for their new city. It was a short distance from the coast and at the narrowest point between the two riverbanks. Those features allowed protection and easy transportation for trade. A recreation of the city is below.
It's been almost two thousand years, so ancient Londinium can be difficult to find. Let's begin at the places we can easily see. Remnants of the wall that once surrounded the city are still there.
Much of early London was built on Londinium's foundations, from street layout to architecture. However, feelings toward their Roman ancestors are mixed at best. While the British Museum proudly displays classical artifacts, visitors to Westminster Bridge encounter a statue of Boudica. She was the queen of the native Celtic army who led an unsuccessful uprising in 61 CE. She remains a symbol of defiance and English nationhood. She was called on as inspiration during the women's suffrage movement and the world wars.
Let's move on to All Hallows-by-the-Tower. It's the oldest church in London.
With much of archaeology, I knew I had to go underground. I only needed to find the entrance to the crypt.
It may not look like much, but this is the floor of a wealthy Roman home with tesserae, little stone tiles. It was discovered in the 1920s when they needed to make repairs to the structure.
The Undercroft Chapel is the main attraction in the crypt dating back over one thousand years.
Continuing underground, the next stop was the Guildhall which dates to the 15th century.
That's too late for the Romans. However, it was built over a very surprising find. In the late 1980s, archaeologists discovered the remains of the ancient city's amphitheatre, similar to the grand Colosseum in Rome (see the map above). They excavated, then designed the neighboring museum around it. It was used for public entertainment, including gladiatorial games.
In a similar story, a Roman temple was uncovered during construction in 1954. It dedicated to the mysterious god Mithras.
Over 14,000 artifacts were discovered including likenesses of Minerva, Mercury, and Serapis, all Roman gods.
The next stop was Leadenhall Market, dating from the 14th century.
Most people go there to eat and to shop. I went to find remains of the largest building in ancient Londinium. Where should I look? In a barbershop, of all places.
My final Roman stop was here.
This is The Gherkin one of the most unique buildings in the city. While most people look up at the design, I looked down at the foundation.
It's a very personal reminder of what history really is. Yes, there are many dates and places, but they all involve people just like you, me, and our families. In this case, it was a teenage girl whose grave was discovered during construction. She was reinterred within the building itself. "To the spirits of the dead, the unknown girl from Londinium is buried here."
With ancient Rome conquered, it was time to enjoy a truly English story. Agatha Christie introduced much to the mystery genre: an elegant country home filled with guests, a snowstorm that cuts off communication, then a chilling murder. The show is the longest running play in the West End.
Goodnight London!
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